It should be no secret that I’m a fan of dramatic loungewear, and that I’ve been eyeing an Amidala-historical mashup.
So when Wearing History first announced their Victorian 1890s 1897 Morning Jacket pattern last year I was VERY excited. I was still not confident in my sewing skills, but the e-pattern was a steal.
Finally, after months of thinking about it, I got it together and started cutting and measuring. I was determined to make a Victorian wrapper I could lounge in, but also look dramatic af in. I think I was successful, no?
So how can you make your own, epically extra wrapper? I’ll give you pointers on what I did for this pattern, so hopefully it helps.
First of all, here are the materials you may need:
- Victorian 1890s 1897 Morning Jacket pattern
- Rulers, measuring tape
- Tailors chalk, heat erase pen
- Friend or mirror
- a buttload of fashion fabric
- about 2 yards of lining fabric, depending
- appliques and other embellishments
Second, know now that the pattern itself is “Expert Difficulty” and comes in one size, but if you have a decent grasp of sizing and measuring, I think you’ll be fine. (The pattern is in one size because it’s taken from an extant pattern.) I very much winged this project. I made no muslin. I simply measured my bust, figured out the difference and sized out the garment. I added inches in the middle back, front center and sides.
I started with the lining. I knew I’d want the lining to be fitted, especially in the back, to get the silhouette right. I extended the bottom of the lining parts from the pattern because I wanted the lining to cover my butt, and not end above my hips, where I’d probably be annoyed at the chaffing. Now, this is only advisable if you’re gonna extend the outer layer too.
After I got the lining fitted, I worked on the body. I extended the fuck outta the seams on that. Again, I gave myself AMPLE extra fabric for the torso because I knew I’d need it to be flowy and well above the 36″ bust.
So how did I extend the hem? I measured from my shoulder OVER my bust to my ankles, so making sure the tape measure passed over my boob to get an idea of how much extra fabric I’d need for the floor-length measurement in center. I used that to measurement to extend the center seams first, and then the outer seams. I kept the flair going, since I had a ton of fabric, but you could cut down on that if you need to conserve fabric. I let the back center be longer than the front so it could have a very slight train and flow nicely.
Reminder too, that for the front there is a yoke part, so measure how long the yoke is and subtract that from the length you need for the flowy front part. At this point it will still feel very baggy without that ties to anchor it on your hips. Make sure your shoulders are fitted right for it to lay well and true through the process.
Speaking of the yoke. I decided to be a little extra and made some pintucks along the middle edge of mine.
I didn’t use the sleeves that came with the pattern. I like for my arms to be free and when I’m sewing I find sleeves can be fiddly and in my way. I instead made flutter sleeves, based loosely on this fashion plate I saw and LOVED.
So I drafted my sleeves using a basic cap sleeve pattern I have handy, then cut and split the bottom to extend the flair.
So once the basic piece was assembled, with the outside attached to the lining, the sleeves cut and pinned on, I needed to make some stylistic choices.
I needed to pump the extra up to 11. And what better way than to embrace the extra af Queen of Naboo? (Also, if you didn’t know, her costumes are very inspired by traditional Mongolian fashion, and you can learn more about that here.)
I happened to have black fur, black closures and gold appliques on hand for just such an occasion. And you can see here how I added those embellishments to create a wrapper worthy of a queen.
So now you have an idea of how I made this. I may do a full-length video on it one day, but for now, go forth and be comfy. Scroll down to see the short videos I did on the process.
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