Getting Started in Flat Patterning

Flat patterning is one of the many magical ways you can learn to create garments. This is a very basic intro to the skill, and I will be adding resources as I come across them. Enjoy!

If you’re looking for introductory info on sewing and supplies, check out my sewing basics post here.


Pattern making supplies

I suggest watching some of the videos below before investing too much in supplies. It’ll give you an idea of what you need, depending on what your projects and goals are.

Must-haves:

Upgrades:

Drafting the basic blocks

Before we get to the patterning, you’re going to need a block or sloper. Wait… what is that? Here are some key terms up front:

  • drafting – using coordinating measurements and formulas to create a plan or template for a pattern
  • sloper or block – the foundation piece that you use to start your flat pattern, it is typically either a general size or specially made to fit a person
  • flat patterning – creating fashion patterns on paper using the flat slopers or blocks
  • draping – creating patterns by putting fabric directly onto a dressform to create your shapes
  • moulage – a French process to fit a garment base

There are a few ways you can make a basic block. You can draft one, you can get a custom one made via a site, you can use one of the basic fitting patterns available at most fabric stores, or you can use an existing garment or pattern that fits like the basic fitting one mentioned above.

I highly recommend The Closet Historian for drafting your own pattern blocks. Below is a playlist of her pattern block drafting videos.

And don’t miss LizCapism‘s fantastic video on pattern drafting.

Adjusting your block to fit you

Here are some common problems you might need to address for your blocks.

Flat patterning basics

Dart manipulation is one of the fundamental techniques you will use. It’s basically re-distributing that dart to either become a styling piece (gathers, tuck, pleat) or moving it in your styleline.

Darts are the little v-shaped slivers of fabric that are built into blocks to build around fullness and curves.

Slash and spread: It is what it sounds like, you cut up to the bust point from a different styleline or other point, leaving just a little bit of paper attached, then you spread that dart between those slashes. You’ll probably secure that placement with tape, and that piece of paper becomes your initial working pattern. Check out this step-by-step walkthrough.

The pivot method: You can also move darts using this slightly different set of steps. This method involves drawing half the pattern, then pivoting it around the bust point to shift where the dart is, so you’re tracing the working pattern as you make it. There’s a great and thorough walkthrough here.

I go over both methods in the video below!

Leveling up your flat patterning

Here are some cool projects and skills you can work on as you start to look forward toward building your skills.


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If you’d like to support me and my work (or see previews of my upcoming projects), check out my Patreon (it has Austen-themed tiers)! You can also consider donating to my Ko-fi. These funds go toward production fees, which helps me be able to share my content with you all.

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